12-11-13

So much bad is happening in India that I feel guilty to be leading a life with no discomfort. My fight is limited to not being able to use the resources bestowed on me to the fullest. I realise the irony, I wish I hadn't.

On Sundays at the airport there is usually a crowd of couples, families, friends who come to see the planes fly. They haven't sat in one. Their contentment; their ambition; their surrender, do I realise? I wish I hadn't.

There are very less things which I wouldn't be able to do in this life. A large part of my demography wouldn't know what those are. They have basics to take care of.

India's Maslow's Pyramid : A stagnant bottom

In the current India, the bottom is stagnant, and the other's have a slower than gradual progress. Only some part of India is progressing and jumping stages, the other part being ignored, the population being humongous. A vivid co-relation lies in the fact that in India Infrastructural Development is limited to the vicinities of the capital region of every state. Opportunities force the millions of Indians, (including me) to come to the metropolitans. That is where Self-Actualisation is understood to be.

Our national channels do not have OB Vans, studios, journalists, in regions beyond the capitals, they rely on stringers. The rest of the nation then succumbs to the believably prejudiced watchdogs, the partner in crime spokespersons and the well fed influencers. We are given selective information to form selective perceptions. 

The bottom of the pyramid completely ignored lies stagnant merely crawling from A to B, while the nation having become the Animal Farm of George Orwell. 

I agree that such is happening to Egypt, Israel, Greece, Sri Lanka and many other nations and this does not pacify me. I focus and subscribe to the idea of Charity beginning at Home.

The beauty of life!

The beauty of life is retained in its uncertainty.
At one time its a sunkissed spring and then a benumbing winter,
Its an opportunity knocking on your door and then its a distant dream,
Its a hardearned bread of a beggar and a sumptuous breakfast of a king,
Its the skyscraper in the clouds and the leaking thatched roof of a hut,
Its the cry of the newborn and the wail of a dying patient,
It can be a treasure chest when you have lost your hopes,
And its a desert of hopelessness when you need it the most.

Despite all such intricacies,
Life is a classroom and time is the teacher.
Its a subject in itself which wouln't understand you but you have got to.
 
Grab it before it slips out of gaps of your fingers,
Hold it before an earthquake engulfs it,
Dig into its sweetness before it gives you diabetes,
Hit it hard before it paralyzes you in an accident,
Love it before it hates you,
Sleep over it before it alarms you,
Just do it all before it makes you run short of chances.
You might call that its beauty,
But it is the ugliness disguised and that is uncertainty.

A mere experience of survival,
Is the key to the life's gravity.

Do I love my job?

I love Adventure.

I love trekking and hiking, that is long physical hard work.

I love to climb rocks, that’s where I plan my every move in unison with my body weight.

I love bicycling, that’s where I fall if I lose my mind.

I love to cross the river in a pully, that is when my own force pulls my own weight.

I love rafting, each rapid gives me an adrenaline gush.

I love diving into the sea, that’s where I feel submerged and fight for the breath.

I love cliff jumping, that’s when my breath stops but I hear my heart beating loudly.

I love para-sailing, that is where I rise above and enjoy the nostalgia.

I love to explore different geographies, that’s where I shed my mind and imbibe others’.

I love to randomly backpack, and acknowledge what’s coming in.

I am an Image Manager for my company, a PR person for the media fraternity or a Communication Consultant to please myself. I feel all the above emotions in my job… and more.

I didn’t like my job until I saw it from the other side. I am in for an adventure every day.

While the week starts with a past week regression and future prophecies; any of the day could have deadline based tasks similar to the reality shows – Team or Solo coupled with an impromptu news of 2 hours of additional trekking. Once a week or maybe twice as surprise I’d have to go rafting or jump the cliff.  Well, eating a frog with the monthly reports is part of my job too and that’s when it gets sick.

I am usually a backpacker at work prepared for an upcoming malady. Despite my preparation God does wish to play a lot of treasure hunt with me. I fight crisis, as problems are bestowed upon but are not mere repercussions. I trudge different terrains more often in a day delivering equally to each, learning subtle nuances on the way. I do feel a Bear Grylls in me those moments. 

There is always a thrill and suspense in my daily work. I now see it in an optimistic spirit seeking a creative solution tangible or verbal unlike before when I used to crib to others.

It’s all in my day’s work and I love my job.

The Gym Diaries... (Today)

Monday Dec 10, 2012

Oh how delicate and elegant are her lips, 

And...how fullsome are her luscious hips.

Her pink rosy cheeks beckon a kiss,

You darn gym! I am now never gonna miss.

I said it to myself at the treadmill while she was on the stepper. This time at least she would be my motivation when nothing else worked out that made me stick to being regular. Going to the gym after a long time felt very warm and hospitable. I checked glances with the faces I remembered but haven't ever spoken to and hugged the trainer like an old caring friend, he clearly pacifying with me that I still can do it, its not late.

I weighed myself. The machines are not programmed to be emotional. That is the difference between them and the humans. MACHINES! They tell you the darn truth.. on your face!! Well, I weigh ...er.... never ask a guy his weight. Ha!

As my saviour I looked at the trainer who had by now built a very gregarious friendship with the lady with the cleft and he looked back at me with the mildly bowel-suppressed look telling me, 'Don't be sad, you are not alone! Look at all these bummers rolling about!'

This much was enough for the day; I despite all this burnt 250 calories; which I guess is good for the start. Specially when its your first day after a mighty looong gluttony vacation.

The Real Wedding!

During this time it is very often asked, Big Fat Indian Wedding.. eh? Punju style? Dilli ki shadi? 

Marriage?  It doesn’t matter if it qualifies as a great Indian wedding, a wedding at an exotic surrounding, or set with a theme. Similarly, Bengali, Telugu, Tamil, Pahadi or Punjabi doesn’t matter either…

A real marriage is where everyone, every single person is happy. Everyone is excited and eagerly joins to bring the new member home. Because that new person from that moment is as close and personal as they have been in all these years. The wedding is one where all transcend their love, affection, authority and respect at that auspicious moment to the bride. With this noble ritual in mind, no matter what way the marriage is conducted it shall always be beautiful. Where in those few hours every moment that we live, is as vivid, bright and true as in 3D.

The real marriage shall charm the Lords as they shower their blessings with rose petals and the sky shall glitter with stars. The air would have a fresh, flowery scent and everyone would be high on happiness. Everyone who matters and mattered is together. All the loved ones are together, happy wishing and blessing. Where the past is forgotten and future is beckoned.

A real marriage is where the key element is a treat of the five senses. Where it is celebration with Music, Delicacies, Huge Pooh Bear Hugs, Mantras and dazzling brilliance. Where the power is emanating from the bond in the family and togetherness. Not alone, never alone.

I am blessed I have one round the corner. Everyone’s invited!

Ganpati Bappa More Yeah!!!

If all of us foodies had a mascot it would have been the Ganpati without any bias. Now it’s not at all funny but a fact that he’s the biggest foodie among all the 84 crore Gods there are. This is vividly evident from the half man and half elephant configuration, his size and the quantity and kinds of Prasad that's offered to him.

In all these thousands of years it’s really been very difficult to know about Ganesha’s diet chart (except that he was a vegetarian I am sure) but it is elementary, that he relished laddoos the most. Gannu as my new Boss lovingly calls him, was crazy about laddoos and simply couldn't stop himself from eating them. He'd devour them by the hundreds. Once pissed off with Ganesha’s obsession, the Moon made fun of the chubby God. Ganesha's ego was badly hit and he cursed him, saying that his beauty would never be constant. Since that day, the moon reveals itself in all its magnificence only once in 28 days. That's what happens when you hurt a food lover. We are harmless otherwise... 

I think that's the reason not many people observe a fast on Ganesha’s birthday akin to Janamashtmi or Shivrartri. The obvious feeling perhaps is that at least his birthday should be an occasion for pigging and not calling a day's diet dreaming food.

Ganpati Bappa More Yeah!

I miss having a laddoo today; I had to pacify with the Sri Krishna Sweets', Mysore Pak. Coming straight from Coimbatore its amazingly fresh and just melted in my mouth. All thanks to My brother and well, the Wright brothers as well. The best laddoo I have recently had (which also was the best coconut rava laddoo I've ever had) was made by my friend Vikram's mom. In sheer gratitude and no greed whatsoever, I have registered myself for the marriage duties of anybody in his family and whenever he himself plans to get married. It is to be clearly noted, that these duties will be limited to execution in the kitchen and dining area only and should be followed by a peaceful walk and hours of rest. 

I remember visiting a good many sweet shops in Delhi to find the best Laddoo concoction on an assignment for Foodiebay.com (Zomato now). I've found it to be the best at very few places. One of them is the Lakshmi Restaurant at Brahmaputra market in Noida. It has a southern Indian flavor because of the peanut or coconut oil they use. In taste much like the big Tirupati laddoo, but better blended. Some amazing laddoos in Delhi were found at the Ghantewala in Old Delhi, one of the oldest sweet shop there, it sells great quality and variety of laddoos. The unpacked laddoos of Haldiram in Chandni Chowk are delicious too. Made of pure ghee, they melt away with every bite. And there's a sweet shop that serves laddoos hot! Yup... hot. It is so soft like velvet that they smoothly go down to your belly. It’s like a cross between Mysore Pak from the South and the Motichoor of the North.

I don’t know what kind of laddoos does Ganesha like. Unlike of the heavens, we earthlings have gotten used to pacify ourselves with whatever’s convenient. I pray however, that happy with my love and devotion for the laddoos, Ganpati blesses me and my readers for infinite number of opportunities to savour them and celebrate with them. Wish you all a prosperous Ganesh Chaturthi!

"It has always been my intuition that has helped me with angles and not my studying geometry".

...while throwing a paper ball in the trash bin

Bheed!

Bheed!

yeh bheed aaj kitni pehchani si lagti hai,

chehre ki shikan badi roomani si lagti hai.

kya ye mere sheher ki tasveeren hain?

muskata hun to kabhi chubhte teer hain.

yeh bheed jaane kab bant gayi? 

jaane kab bichad gaye tum hathon se...

kab bhool gaye tum un iraadon ko? 

sang sab ke sapnon ko pane ko...

kyun armaanon ko rondte ho?

sach bahar anne se kyun rokte ho...!
kaho kya ho tum zimmedar sahi? 
aur kya tum is bheed ke bhaag nahi?

yeh bheed badh rahi hai par;
dikh gaii hai humko ek dagar!

yeh safar bahut hai kathin magar, 
na udaas ho mere humsafar...

Do you feel the goosebumps? Well, that's the power of togetherness.

This is the beautiful Bangla Version of the Yeh Safar song from the Hindi Movie "1942 A Love Story". Through the meaning of this song I wish to express my solidarity towards everything that is going wrong with our country right now.

Khushwant Singh : Beyond Malice

Dearest Khushwant Singh Sir,

As children we were shocked one day when a friend with extreme bibliophobia told us that you are his favourite author. In complete amazement we asked him which book and he replied, Khushwant Singh  Joke Book 4. I still have a collection of them in my petite library. We were in 2nd or 3rd when we first came to know about you. In Kullu (HP), Tribune was the only English newspaper we got and every weekend there was your article with a cartoon sketch of yours with an inverted light bulb. Every article had a joke in the end. We used to be really anxious to read the joke besides trying our hand at the rest of the article. We used to save the cutting of the articles to read them again later.

I write as an ardent and inspired fan. I was in Delhi at the Khan Market recently and I remembered you. There has been an urge to see you since childhood.

Till date you have written more than any Indian writer. You have been probably, the oldest working journalist, and an eye witness to almost all the historical turns in modern Indian history. Your opinions on them, coming from a secular mind have been perceived bluntly by those with the minds of conventional sycophants. Today, I write about you as an author and as a person. I am glad that I was introduced to you as a child. The irony in 'The Mark of Vishnu’ left an eternal mark in my mind. That irony in the title revealed through the story opened our eyes to the superstitions and fallacies that may have trickled gradually in our innocent minds.

More than your novels I have read you in the newspapers. As we grew up reading you, we learnt that it is normal to be maverick and whimsical and not necessarily a self-compromising idealist, like a horse with limited vision. I think it was important to know that the world is not a beautiful rosy place and you did have the guts to bring it out in the suppressed and narrow India of the 80s. Again, I'll restrict myself to your views and opinions on politics and only focus on the Khushwant Singh as I have known him - as a hard working disciplined author. In class rooms and libraries I have discussed with my English teachers about you being the O. Henry from India and your friendship with RK Narayan.

I see my grandmother in your "A portrait of a lady". I remember her as vivid and living as I read through the lines. I can see my grandmother singing aloud victory songs as yours did at your homecoming. It shall be a story closest to my heart.

I think ‘Delhi’ was one of the best books written on Delhi perhaps because it did not use any façade to hide Delhi’s existing repulsiveness. And it can never be concealed for this is what Delhi is, visibly and within the mind.

Zohra Sehgal just turned hundred years old. Both of you are the wise elders of our nation which today doesn’t have many. On the topic of ‘How to Live andDie’ from your book Absolute Khushwant, wisdom flows as the grand old man of letters speaks to us of happiness. 

I quote you taking inspiration from an incident in your book, Death At My Doorstep, “In my third year as editor of The Hindustan Times, when my contract was due for renewal my anndaata (provider) KK Birla asked me, ‘Sardar sahib aap ka retire honay kaa kya vichar hai? (aren’t you thinking of retiring?). I was then 69. I replied, ‘Birlaji, retire to main Nigambodh ghaat mein honga (I will retire when I’m taken to the cremation grounds). ”

During a test a question that was asked to Yudhishthara was what is the biggest wonder of life? He had wisely replied that we see creatures depart to Yama's abode yet, seek to live forever. This verily is the greatest wonder. One day, I too strive hard to say 'Opus Exegi' like you had after finishing the monumental book 'the history of Sikhs', and be ready for the final day braving that 'my life's work is done'.

With a lot of Love, Affection and Reverence,

Udit

‘Come and get lost!’ in the jewel of Kumaon.

If ‘change’ is the primary reason we travel, then we must prepare ourselves for significant alterations while travelling up north. We shall be witnessing differences in the geography, the flora and fauna, the cultures and even among the natives’ behavior. The geography there becomes of course of the Indo-Gangetic planes crowned by the gigantic snowcapped Himalayas. The people there could be unpredictable and whimsical yet their core remains of a humble and down to earth being. The above have their effect on the flavor and the rhythm of the land as well.

Of all the beautiful places among the Himalayas, Binsar is a well-kept secret in its untouched and inherent glory. It is here where we would feel the true sense of the word ‘The Himalayas’, as we stand as a tiny dot in front of the magnificent mountains. Standing tall at Binsar’s height in the crystal clear cold air, listening to the chirping of the birds, sounds of the langurs and buzzing of the cicadas I set my eyes to the vast expansive horizon, overlapping mountains, the mysterious deodars and the manicured terrace farms. One goes through a spiritual feeling of being one with the world, bowing to the power of nature and embracing our blessings.

After almost a 14 hour long but worthwhile journey from Delhi, I reached Binsar being welcomed by a huge signboard reading ‘Come and get lost’! With thick forests enclosing on either side, I was driven to the charming Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) tourist house. This government owned resort is a pristine cottage with English architecture, wooden-floored rooms, wild flowers in the garden and electricity for only two hours a day! I found myself to be one of the characters of Ruskin Bond’s ghost stories walking around the cottages with candlelight for the rest of the evening.

Binsar was the capital of Chand Raj kings who ruled the Kumaon region from 11th – 18th century. An expansive duration of rule was a result of the natural richness and abundance, territorial safety because of the height and the splendid beauty. Binsar Forest Reserve is located at 2412 metres (7900 feet above the sea level), quietly nestled amidst rhododendron, oak, pine and deodar tree forests of the Jhandi Dhar hills. The forest is home to diverse flora and fauna and has been declared as an ‘Important Bird Area’ sanctuary, with over 200 species of birds inhabiting this region.

Binsar is also the trekker’s paradise. In the olden days people used to come from far-flung villages, trekking on paths they themselves created to pay homage to Bineshwar Mahadev - the Lord of Animals (a form of Lord Shiva). Rising to a height of 2412 mts offers an excellent view of the Almora town, the Kumaon Hills and the greater Himalayas.

I walked up to Zero Point in the early morning hours before sunrise. A walk through the dense oak and rhododendron forest leads to the highest point at Binsar's summit, which gives an uncluttered view of the Himalayan range and the surrounding valley - an area flourishing with alpine flora, hanging moss, ferns and innumerable species of wild flowers. This is the highest point in the Almora district from where one can treat oneself with a panoramic view of the Kumaon Himalayan range.

I prayed for the clouds to disperse to have a vivid picture of the Greater Himalayas. It took some time but my prayers were answered. The sun rose through the sluggish clouds to kiss the tips of the peaks. For as far as my eyes could see, I was enveloped by the majestic snow-capped mountains. One by one, the peaks of Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, Panchchuoli, Kedarnath, Trishuli and Chaukhamba revealed themselves as I sat mesmerized losing myself watchin the 300-km stretch of Himalayan delights I had only heard about before. This was the moment where I stood enveloped with mysterious tranquility which had made me come this far to the majestic Himalayas.

My food at Binsar was plain sabji, dal and parantha made with meager spices and raw chilies as option. Though humbly prepared, the food was full of taste of the vegetable and was delicious to the core. Tea and pakodas were anytime snacks and could be had any number of times through the day. I continued my trek through the forest which shelters a wide array of wildlife, including the beautiful pheasants, a Himalayan game bird. The trek though Binsar gives us the time to enjoy and absorb the rich and diverse geography, culture and wildlife of this region. Nonetheless, it shouldn’t be mistaken for a romantic hill station walk. Boots are recommended and special care has to be taken while moving through the forest paths. Apart from a hike through Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, the treks take one to the sacred lakes, the villages and the many ancient temples.

This is Binsar, an authentic Himalayan experience encapsulating the treat of a beautiful journey, humble food coupled with the nature’s music playing in the background. The enriching spiritual experience we take back from here is best kept to oneself however it is known that even the most proud bow down to the power that rests here.
                                                                        ***

How to get there: Binsar is situated 33 kms from Almora town and 95 km from Nainital. The nearest rail station in Kathgodham (reachable by overnight train, “Ranikhet Express” boarding from Old Delhi station). Binsar is easily accessible by car from Kathgodam/ Almora town. A drive from Delhi should take about 14 to 16 hours.

Where to stay: There are few resorts in and around Binsar (available online) including Club Mahindra, Kassar Jungle Resort, Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (Government owned), Valley Resort etc. Food is available at the resorts only and the staff could be requested to get it packed for the treks. Nearby tourist attractions: Almora town, Kathgodam, Jageshwar temple complex, Nainital/ Bhimtal and Sattal in Uttaranchal.

***

The article was originally published as a travelogue in the newspaper The Hans India, on 10th June 2012.

A river runs through it...

“A city of temples” is not at all the right way to introduce Hampi to an amateur traveler. He might just skip it for someplace more adventurous. Little would he know that the volatile and wild Shiva, still rules the land!

Hampi has a retro and a vintage tinge to it. I gazed at an expansive landscape adjusting my sleepy eyes to an array of beautiful patterns, hues and colours. I entered a soothing and calm sphere admiring the topography of the enchanted place.

The hospitable and ever accommodating Hampi takes care of your needs even before you realize them. Again, the Hampi dwellers and marketers would not try to oversell us anything. The locals serve the visitors till their necessity is efficiently met and they get paid for in return. Beyond that there is no ill intent, instead an arm of friendship is always extended. I realize that the lack of greed has made Hampi sustain its grandeur and character from ancient times to now.

I began my day sipping through Black Turkish coffee sitting at the vibrant shack of my hotel cum motel cum restaurant cum lounge. The shacks have a close view of the beautiful Tunghbhadra and the majestic Virupaksha Temple on the other side of the river. I could see tourists and the locals lined up to cross the river in motor boats. The banks of the river culturally define Hampi possessing two sub-cultures together. The thin line between surrender and indulgence is separated by the river. Facing the east, stand the tall, grand temples and ruins of Hampi, reflecting its spiritual side.  The west bank of the river is the more vivacious side which awakens when the sun sets. It’s a kilometer long narrow lane lined with hotels having small rooms but big kitchens. These hyper active kitchens offer the choicest of food one can ask for. One could binge on mouthwatering Lebanese, Israeli, Spanish, Italian and Indian dishes very close to their authentic taste and form. The food clubbed with fresh and natural beverages, non-alcoholic though, make sure that the indulgence is properly carried. Beautiful soothing music mostly Tibetan and Om Mani Padme Hum chants bring about good conversations even with oneself. Off the record, a little coaxing to the right person can add many more colors to the night.

My motor bike had arrived by the time I got done with an elaborate breakfast. The bikes are the best way to travel at Hampi. They are not that expensive and give one the agility to stop at any breathtaking landscape. The mesmerizing rocky terrain keeps changing its colours through the day. I crossed the river with the bike on the motorboat. It was an experience to be in that not so sturdy boat carrying myself, the Hippies with piercings and tattoos, the ever smiling Koreans, the locals, the silent habitual animals, vegetables and vehicles. The much overloaded boat was anything but scary, it was a true symbolic picture of Vasudev Kutumbakam.  The boatman asked me in fluent English, “Where are you going?” I really did not want to sound ignorant but, even after much thought I had no other answer than, “I don’t know!”

I like an aloof Hippy on the bike began my rendezvous with Hampi. My uncertain itinerary had only two things fixed. I had two and a half days time and also that I had the best guide of Hampi to take me around. ‘Basava’ was referred to me by many a friends who have been ardent Hampi fans.

Hampi the 14th century capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire is spread over an area of more than 26 sq. kms. The terrain is of the typical prehistoric and cave man setting; it's full of huge boulders stuck to each other, piled up, of all shapes and sizes. Greenery has its own splendor as Tungabhadra river makes the land extremely fertile and rich in minerals. A perfect capital for the flourishing Vijayanagara kingdom. Legend has it that diamonds and gold jewellery were transported on elephants, horses and bullock carts for over 6 months to Penukonda by the Vijayanagara rulers from their capital Hampi in Karnataka to protect the wealth from Muslim rulers in the 16th century. The foreign visitors to the capital during the 15th and 16th centuries have called the Hampi empire bigger and much splendid than the Roman.

We enter Virupaksha temple the oldest living and the principal temple in Hampi has been an important pilgrimage centre for the Shaivites. Virupaksha temple is equally sort after by the tourists and pilgrims especially during the annual festivals attracting huge crowds. The temple is a huge complex housing many sub shrines, pillared halls, flag posts, lamp posts, towered gateways and even a large temple kitchen. Next we came to the magnificient monolithic Lakshmi Narashimha, the forth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. It is one of the finest examples of Vijayanagar sculptures. Narashimha is seated on the giant coils of Adishesha, the guardian snake.

Basava took me to the Hemakuta Hill which has temples dating to 1398 and shrines that exist from the 9th century, making them perhaps the oldest in Hampi. This ancient hill has mythological associations with the Ramayana as part of Kishkinda. Anjanadri hill on the other side of the river, the birth place of Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the places associated with Ramayana. In the epic Ramayana, Kishkinda was the kingdom of Bali, Sugriva's brother. After killing Bali the kingdom was handed over to Sugriva by Rama. Kishkinda-Kanda, a chapter in the Ramayana depicts the meeting of Rama and Lakshman with Hanuman and Sugriva in these grand rocky mountains. The historian Mourya Mane refers to Hampi and surrounding areas as one with rare human settlements, where we will find traces of Microlithic, Megalithic and Neolithic age of human life at one same spot.

Basava realized that it is the essence of the place that I am interested to know, numbers on measurement and quantity isn’t what I really wanted to listen to. The most beautiful sculptures are to be seen in the Hazaara Rama temple, said to contain 1,000 carvings of Rama and his life story. But the name implies "Hajaramu" — the Telugu word for entrance hall to palace. Said to be of the 15th Century, almost every inch of the hall is covered with truly exquisite carvings and undoubtedly well preserved. Each panel shows an episode in Rama's life. Four black stone pillars within too carry many sculpted images.

We now proceed to the main attraction in Hampi — the Vitthala temple, on the riverbank built by Krishnadeva Raya in the early 16th Century. A long row of ancient pillared pavilions stretches out — this was the original main bazaar where gems were traded. The kingdom had the bazaars right in front of the temple so that the dealings are pure and honest. The granite pillars in the temple halls carry finest artistic works on them. One such hall adorns musical stone pillars along the corners that bring out different melodies and tunes. One of the halls was the dancing platform for the royal family and has large sculptures of musicians standing along the pillars however many are vandalised.

Basava with great enthusiasm took me to the Mahanavami Dibba or Dasera Dibba, built by Krishnadeva Raya after his conquest of Orissa. It is full of beautiful carvings of dancers, soldiers, horses and elephants on the walls of a huge raised platform. Foreigners like Arab horse traders, French and Portugal merchants, Chinese visitors with pigtails and conical hats are depicted here, showing the immense reach and trade relations of the empire.

The chariot in front of the temple holds the idol of Garuda, and is drawn by horses which have now been replaced by elephants. This is in fact a shrine built in the form of a temple chariot. It is very finely carved, has paintings, is a masterpiece of engineering and has wheels that can rotate! Garuda, according to the Hindu mythology, is the vehicle of lord Vishnu.

Lastly Basava quickly took me to the Archeological Museum. The museum is home to the various statues and idols that help understand the period between 13th – 16th century better. Also it has a miniature model of entire Hampi which acts as a reference point. I believe one should start from the museum as it would really help one connect and relate with the rest of the tour. On our way back we climbed up a hill and saw the sky go red, orange and finally blue. I bid my friend farewell and to Hampi too.

My days at Hampi were a voyager’s treat, bewildering mythology, splendid history, a surreal geography accompanied with serene music and delicious food. What more would a traveler ask for. Knowing Hampi in two days is only the tip of the iceberg. I have visited Hampi thrice and each day at Hampi took me to a completely new place. Each time I left the mysterious Hampi with a promise to be back. It would be a sin to ever miss out on Hampi. And if you do take back the mystic afterglow with you… Shiva has graced you.

Travel Guide: Basava could be reached at +91 9449734708

Where to stay : Hampi might not offer great luxury, even if it does it comes at a high price. Kishkinda resort, about 3 km away from the river is one of them. It is not a bad bargain to stay at the resorts at the bank of the river at Virupapura Gaddi. These are surrounded by paddy fields and provide the best escape from the busy world. The food is delightful and a morning or an evening walk across the fields to the banks of the river compensates for the small rooms, ACs or ultra modern washrooms. Mowgli Guest House and Shanthi Guest House are the most popular and with the best view.                                                                           

***

The article was originally published as a travelogue in the newspaper The Hans India, on 15th April 2012.