“A city of temples” is not at all the right way to introduce Hampi to an amateur traveler. He might just skip it for someplace more adventurous. Little would he know that the volatile and wild Shiva, still rules the land!
Hampi has a retro and a vintage tinge to it. I gazed at an expansive landscape adjusting my sleepy eyes to an array of beautiful patterns, hues and colours. I entered a soothing and calm sphere admiring the topography of the enchanted place.
The hospitable and ever accommodating Hampi takes care of your needs even before you realize them. Again, the Hampi dwellers and marketers would not try to oversell us anything. The locals serve the visitors till their necessity is efficiently met and they get paid for in return. Beyond that there is no ill intent, instead an arm of friendship is always extended. I realize that the lack of greed has made Hampi sustain its grandeur and character from ancient times to now.
I began my day sipping through Black Turkish coffee sitting at the vibrant shack of my hotel cum motel cum restaurant cum lounge. The shacks have a close view of the beautiful Tunghbhadra and the majestic Virupaksha Temple on the other side of the river. I could see tourists and the locals lined up to cross the river in motor boats. The banks of the river culturally define Hampi possessing two sub-cultures together. The thin line between surrender and indulgence is separated by the river. Facing the east, stand the tall, grand temples and ruins of Hampi, reflecting its spiritual side. The west bank of the river is the more vivacious side which awakens when the sun sets. It’s a kilometer long narrow lane lined with hotels having small rooms but big kitchens. These hyper active kitchens offer the choicest of food one can ask for. One could binge on mouthwatering Lebanese, Israeli, Spanish, Italian and Indian dishes very close to their authentic taste and form. The food clubbed with fresh and natural beverages, non-alcoholic though, make sure that the indulgence is properly carried. Beautiful soothing music mostly Tibetan and Om Mani Padme Hum chants bring about good conversations even with oneself. Off the record, a little coaxing to the right person can add many more colors to the night.
My motor bike had arrived by the time I got done with an elaborate breakfast. The bikes are the best way to travel at Hampi. They are not that expensive and give one the agility to stop at any breathtaking landscape. The mesmerizing rocky terrain keeps changing its colours through the day. I crossed the river with the bike on the motorboat. It was an experience to be in that not so sturdy boat carrying myself, the Hippies with piercings and tattoos, the ever smiling Koreans, the locals, the silent habitual animals, vegetables and vehicles. The much overloaded boat was anything but scary, it was a true symbolic picture of Vasudev Kutumbakam. The boatman asked me in fluent English, “Where are you going?” I really did not want to sound ignorant but, even after much thought I had no other answer than, “I don’t know!”
I like an aloof Hippy on the bike began my rendezvous with Hampi. My uncertain itinerary had only two things fixed. I had two and a half days time and also that I had the best guide of Hampi to take me around. ‘Basava’ was referred to me by many a friends who have been ardent Hampi fans.
Hampi the 14th century capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire is spread over an area of more than 26 sq. kms. The terrain is of the typical prehistoric and cave man setting; it's full of huge boulders stuck to each other, piled up, of all shapes and sizes. Greenery has its own splendor as Tungabhadra river makes the land extremely fertile and rich in minerals. A perfect capital for the flourishing Vijayanagara kingdom. Legend has it that diamonds and gold jewellery were transported on elephants, horses and bullock carts for over 6 months to Penukonda by the Vijayanagara rulers from their capital Hampi in Karnataka to protect the wealth from Muslim rulers in the 16th century. The foreign visitors to the capital during the 15th and 16th centuries have called the Hampi empire bigger and much splendid than the Roman.
Hampi the 14th century capital city of the Vijayanagar Empire is spread over an area of more than 26 sq. kms. The terrain is of the typical prehistoric and cave man setting; it's full of huge boulders stuck to each other, piled up, of all shapes and sizes. Greenery has its own splendor as Tungabhadra river makes the land extremely fertile and rich in minerals. A perfect capital for the flourishing Vijayanagara kingdom. Legend has it that diamonds and gold jewellery were transported on elephants, horses and bullock carts for over 6 months to Penukonda by the Vijayanagara rulers from their capital Hampi in Karnataka to protect the wealth from Muslim rulers in the 16th century. The foreign visitors to the capital during the 15th and 16th centuries have called the Hampi empire bigger and much splendid than the Roman.
We enter Virupaksha temple the oldest living and the principal temple in Hampi has been an important pilgrimage centre for the Shaivites. Virupaksha temple is equally sort after by the tourists and pilgrims especially during the annual festivals attracting huge crowds. The temple is a huge complex housing many sub shrines, pillared halls, flag posts, lamp posts, towered gateways and even a large temple kitchen. Next we came to the magnificient monolithic Lakshmi Narashimha, the forth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. It is one of the finest examples of Vijayanagar sculptures. Narashimha is seated on the giant coils of Adishesha, the guardian snake.
Basava took me to the Hemakuta Hill which has temples dating to 1398 and shrines that exist from the 9th century, making them perhaps the oldest in Hampi. This ancient hill has mythological associations with the Ramayana as part of Kishkinda. Anjanadri hill on the other side of the river, the birth place of Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the places associated with Ramayana. In the epic Ramayana, Kishkinda was the kingdom of Bali, Sugriva's brother. After killing Bali the kingdom was handed over to Sugriva by Rama. Kishkinda-Kanda, a chapter in the Ramayana depicts the meeting of Rama and Lakshman with Hanuman and Sugriva in these grand rocky mountains. The historian Mourya Mane refers to Hampi and surrounding areas as one with rare human settlements, where we will find traces of Microlithic, Megalithic and Neolithic age of human life at one same spot.
Basava realized that it is the essence of the place that I am interested to know, numbers on measurement and quantity isn’t what I really wanted to listen to. The most beautiful sculptures are to be seen in the Hazaara Rama temple, said to contain 1,000 carvings of Rama and his life story. But the name implies "Hajaramu" — the Telugu word for entrance hall to palace. Said to be of the 15th Century, almost every inch of the hall is covered with truly exquisite carvings and undoubtedly well preserved. Each panel shows an episode in Rama's life. Four black stone pillars within too carry many sculpted images.
Basava realized that it is the essence of the place that I am interested to know, numbers on measurement and quantity isn’t what I really wanted to listen to. The most beautiful sculptures are to be seen in the Hazaara Rama temple, said to contain 1,000 carvings of Rama and his life story. But the name implies "Hajaramu" — the Telugu word for entrance hall to palace. Said to be of the 15th Century, almost every inch of the hall is covered with truly exquisite carvings and undoubtedly well preserved. Each panel shows an episode in Rama's life. Four black stone pillars within too carry many sculpted images.
We now proceed to the main attraction in Hampi — the Vitthala temple, on the riverbank built by Krishnadeva Raya in the early 16th Century. A long row of ancient pillared pavilions stretches out — this was the original main bazaar where gems were traded. The kingdom had the bazaars right in front of the temple so that the dealings are pure and honest. The granite pillars in the temple halls carry finest artistic works on them. One such hall adorns musical stone pillars along the corners that bring out different melodies and tunes. One of the halls was the dancing platform for the royal family and has large sculptures of musicians standing along the pillars however many are vandalised.
Basava with great enthusiasm took me to the Mahanavami Dibba or Dasera Dibba, built by Krishnadeva Raya after his conquest of Orissa. It is full of beautiful carvings of dancers, soldiers, horses and elephants on the walls of a huge raised platform. Foreigners like Arab horse traders, French and Portugal merchants, Chinese visitors with pigtails and conical hats are depicted here, showing the immense reach and trade relations of the empire.
Basava with great enthusiasm took me to the Mahanavami Dibba or Dasera Dibba, built by Krishnadeva Raya after his conquest of Orissa. It is full of beautiful carvings of dancers, soldiers, horses and elephants on the walls of a huge raised platform. Foreigners like Arab horse traders, French and Portugal merchants, Chinese visitors with pigtails and conical hats are depicted here, showing the immense reach and trade relations of the empire.
The chariot in front of the temple holds the idol of Garuda, and is drawn by horses which have now been replaced by elephants. This is in fact a shrine built in the form of a temple chariot. It is very finely carved, has paintings, is a masterpiece of engineering and has wheels that can rotate! Garuda, according to the Hindu mythology, is the vehicle of lord Vishnu.
Lastly Basava quickly took me to the Archeological Museum. The museum is home to the various statues and idols that help understand the period between 13th – 16th century better. Also it has a miniature model of entire Hampi which acts as a reference point. I believe one should start from the museum as it would really help one connect and relate with the rest of the tour. On our way back we climbed up a hill and saw the sky go red, orange and finally blue. I bid my friend farewell and to Hampi too.
My days at Hampi were a voyager’s treat, bewildering mythology, splendid history, a surreal geography accompanied with serene music and delicious food. What more would a traveler ask for. Knowing Hampi in two days is only the tip of the iceberg. I have visited Hampi thrice and each day at Hampi took me to a completely new place. Each time I left the mysterious Hampi with a promise to be back. It would be a sin to ever miss out on Hampi. And if you do take back the mystic afterglow with you… Shiva has graced you.
Travel Guide: Basava could be reached at +91 9449734708
Where to stay : Hampi might not offer great luxury, even if it does it comes at a high price. Kishkinda resort, about 3 km away from the river is one of them. It is not a bad bargain to stay at the resorts at the bank of the river at Virupapura Gaddi. These are surrounded by paddy fields and provide the best escape from the busy world. The food is delightful and a morning or an evening walk across the fields to the banks of the river compensates for the small rooms, ACs or ultra modern washrooms. Mowgli Guest House and Shanthi Guest House are the most popular and with the best view.
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The article was originally published as a travelogue in the newspaper The Hans India, on 15th April 2012.
