‘Come and get lost!’ in the jewel of Kumaon.

If ‘change’ is the primary reason we travel, then we must prepare ourselves for significant alterations while travelling up north. We shall be witnessing differences in the geography, the flora and fauna, the cultures and even among the natives’ behavior. The geography there becomes of course of the Indo-Gangetic planes crowned by the gigantic snowcapped Himalayas. The people there could be unpredictable and whimsical yet their core remains of a humble and down to earth being. The above have their effect on the flavor and the rhythm of the land as well.

Of all the beautiful places among the Himalayas, Binsar is a well-kept secret in its untouched and inherent glory. It is here where we would feel the true sense of the word ‘The Himalayas’, as we stand as a tiny dot in front of the magnificent mountains. Standing tall at Binsar’s height in the crystal clear cold air, listening to the chirping of the birds, sounds of the langurs and buzzing of the cicadas I set my eyes to the vast expansive horizon, overlapping mountains, the mysterious deodars and the manicured terrace farms. One goes through a spiritual feeling of being one with the world, bowing to the power of nature and embracing our blessings.

After almost a 14 hour long but worthwhile journey from Delhi, I reached Binsar being welcomed by a huge signboard reading ‘Come and get lost’! With thick forests enclosing on either side, I was driven to the charming Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) tourist house. This government owned resort is a pristine cottage with English architecture, wooden-floored rooms, wild flowers in the garden and electricity for only two hours a day! I found myself to be one of the characters of Ruskin Bond’s ghost stories walking around the cottages with candlelight for the rest of the evening.

Binsar was the capital of Chand Raj kings who ruled the Kumaon region from 11th – 18th century. An expansive duration of rule was a result of the natural richness and abundance, territorial safety because of the height and the splendid beauty. Binsar Forest Reserve is located at 2412 metres (7900 feet above the sea level), quietly nestled amidst rhododendron, oak, pine and deodar tree forests of the Jhandi Dhar hills. The forest is home to diverse flora and fauna and has been declared as an ‘Important Bird Area’ sanctuary, with over 200 species of birds inhabiting this region.

Binsar is also the trekker’s paradise. In the olden days people used to come from far-flung villages, trekking on paths they themselves created to pay homage to Bineshwar Mahadev - the Lord of Animals (a form of Lord Shiva). Rising to a height of 2412 mts offers an excellent view of the Almora town, the Kumaon Hills and the greater Himalayas.

I walked up to Zero Point in the early morning hours before sunrise. A walk through the dense oak and rhododendron forest leads to the highest point at Binsar's summit, which gives an uncluttered view of the Himalayan range and the surrounding valley - an area flourishing with alpine flora, hanging moss, ferns and innumerable species of wild flowers. This is the highest point in the Almora district from where one can treat oneself with a panoramic view of the Kumaon Himalayan range.

I prayed for the clouds to disperse to have a vivid picture of the Greater Himalayas. It took some time but my prayers were answered. The sun rose through the sluggish clouds to kiss the tips of the peaks. For as far as my eyes could see, I was enveloped by the majestic snow-capped mountains. One by one, the peaks of Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, Panchchuoli, Kedarnath, Trishuli and Chaukhamba revealed themselves as I sat mesmerized losing myself watchin the 300-km stretch of Himalayan delights I had only heard about before. This was the moment where I stood enveloped with mysterious tranquility which had made me come this far to the majestic Himalayas.

My food at Binsar was plain sabji, dal and parantha made with meager spices and raw chilies as option. Though humbly prepared, the food was full of taste of the vegetable and was delicious to the core. Tea and pakodas were anytime snacks and could be had any number of times through the day. I continued my trek through the forest which shelters a wide array of wildlife, including the beautiful pheasants, a Himalayan game bird. The trek though Binsar gives us the time to enjoy and absorb the rich and diverse geography, culture and wildlife of this region. Nonetheless, it shouldn’t be mistaken for a romantic hill station walk. Boots are recommended and special care has to be taken while moving through the forest paths. Apart from a hike through Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, the treks take one to the sacred lakes, the villages and the many ancient temples.

This is Binsar, an authentic Himalayan experience encapsulating the treat of a beautiful journey, humble food coupled with the nature’s music playing in the background. The enriching spiritual experience we take back from here is best kept to oneself however it is known that even the most proud bow down to the power that rests here.
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How to get there: Binsar is situated 33 kms from Almora town and 95 km from Nainital. The nearest rail station in Kathgodham (reachable by overnight train, “Ranikhet Express” boarding from Old Delhi station). Binsar is easily accessible by car from Kathgodam/ Almora town. A drive from Delhi should take about 14 to 16 hours.

Where to stay: There are few resorts in and around Binsar (available online) including Club Mahindra, Kassar Jungle Resort, Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (Government owned), Valley Resort etc. Food is available at the resorts only and the staff could be requested to get it packed for the treks. Nearby tourist attractions: Almora town, Kathgodam, Jageshwar temple complex, Nainital/ Bhimtal and Sattal in Uttaranchal.

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The article was originally published as a travelogue in the newspaper The Hans India, on 10th June 2012.